Classic Costumes / Skirt Suits
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Index - Classic costumes: 1. Fitting Advice for the Jacket 2. Fitting Advice for the Skirt 3. Best Look Advice for Jackets 4. Best Look Advice for Skirts |
A classic costume
It fits very well for business-related evening occasions, all sorts of parties and the theatre.
Fitting Advice for the Jacket
Collar:
The collar of the jacket should end at the middle of the neck without standing away from it.
See that there is no fabric wrinkling up underneath the collar in the back part.
Lapels:
The lapel should lay flat and roll smooth on the opening line (neckline) above the upper button.
If the lapel gapes open, the jacket is too small in the back part and in the chest.
Shoulders:
The shoulders should sit straight with no pulling and they should not stand off too much.
If there is any pulling or pressure on the shoulder, the jacket is too small.
Body Part:
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The jacket of the suit should not fit too slackly. If the fit of the jacket is too tight, it creates horizontal lines on the back part, it pulls on the hips and opens the back vents. When you try on the jacket, you should raise and lower your arms in order to see if the jacket moves back to the right fitting place without having to fix the fit position. Make sure that the armhole is wide enough to move your arms comfortable. (Please note that jackets with a good fitting shape are always not as comfortable as jackets with a bad fit!) |
The curves on the waist of the jacket should fall smooth without making any pleats or crinkles.
Hem:
When you look at the hem from the side, it should be straight all around and fall in a nice round shape.
Make sure that there is no part standing off and that the hem line has a smooth run all around.
Sleeves:
When your hands hang at your side and your arm is slightly bent, the sleeves should just cover your wrist bone.
Buttons:
If the jacket is fastened, you should be able to sit down comfortable.
If the jacket is too tight, the fabric will make pleats in the shape of an x pattern going out from the upper button.
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Fitting Advice for the Skirt
Waistband:
A good fit at the waist is very important.
Try the skirt on to see if it feels comfortable when both standing and sitting.
You should be able to put a finger between the waistband and your waist and also consider that there is enough space to wear a shirt or a blouse inside your skirt.
Lining:
The lining should feel comfortable on your skin and not be too tight.
If you sit down and get up again the skirt should slide back smoothly in the right position.
Also see that the lining attachments make no ugly crinkles on the shell fabric.
Side Seams:
Side seams should lay flat and fall straight from the waist to the hem except from special styles with unusual side seams.
Look for a smooth run of the side seam with no crinkles.
The shape of the side seam should fit perfect to the shape of your hips.
Darts:
If the skirt has front or back darts, they should lay flat and make no pleats when you wear the skirt.
Hem:
When you look at the hem from the side, the run of the hemline should be even and smooth all around (except from styles with an asymmetrical hemline).
Especially make sure that the hem doesn`t roll outside on the front or back and on the side seams.
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Best Look Advice
Classic costume`s jacket:
Full Bust:
Shape:
Choose fitted or semi-fitted styles with deep V-necks.
For your best look:
- Only wear single-breasted styles.
- Narrow long drawn-out lapels are very flattering.
- Look for jackets with a closure right below your bustline so that the jacket does not gape open.
- Flat woven, flowing fabrics are the most flattering.
- Choose a jacket that is darker than your pants or skirt.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your full bust:
- Any horizontal details (seams, stripes and piping)
- Double-breasted jackets
- Patch pockets
- Short broad lapels
Small Bust:
Shape:
Look for fitted jackets with an accentuated waist.
Double-breasted styles or jackets with a belt could be also a good choice.
For your best look:
- Choose jackets with details at the bustline like patch pockets, seams or piping.
- Try styles with shoulder pads.
- Dark colored jackets look more flattering.
Avoid this mistake that is not flattering to your small bust:
- Too much shaping at the bust area
Tummy:
Shape:
Look for semi-fitted or straight cut styles that extend past your bottom.
For your best look:
- Choose jackets with vertical details, like seams and stripes.
- Deep long lapels help to elongate the torso.
- Choose only single-breasted styles.
- Choose long jackets in dark colors.
Avoid these mistakes that accentuate to your tummy:
- Double-breasted styles
- Wide collars and lapels
- Short jackets that end right below your tummy
Curvy body:
Shape:
Choose a semi-fitted jacket that ends where your hips start to curve out or a jacket that just covers your bottom.
For your best look:
- Choose a jacket made of fluid fabrics.
- Draw attention to your waist with a shapely jacked.
- Look for a jacket with a closure right below your bustline.
- Choose only single-breasted styles.
- Make sure that the jacket fits good but not too tight.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your curvy body:
- Short lapels
- Flap pockets
- Cropped jackets
Short waisted / long legs:
Shape:
Choose semi-fitted styles that extend past your bottom.
For your best look:
- A deep long drawn-out lapel collar helps to stretch the appearance of your torso.
- Choose styles with vertical details, like seams, stripes, and vertical pocket openings.
- Choose jackets that extend past your bottom.
- Choose single-breasted styles.
- Shoulder pads can help to stretch the appearance of your torso.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your short waisted stature and long legs:
- Double-breasted styles
- Any horizontal details near your waistline
- Jackets with high necklines
Long waisted / short legs:
Shape:
Choose short jacket styles to pair with a long skirt that has a high waistband.
For your best look:
- Wear jackets that are lighter colored than your skirt or dress.
- Choose high necklines.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your long waisted stature and short legs:
- Long jacket styles
- Vertical details
- Deep lapel collars
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Classic costume`s skirt:
Short body:
Shape:
Try tapered, straight skirts or subtle a-line skirts.
Choose a knee length skirt.
If the skirt is too long or too short, it can make you appear shorter.
For your best look:
- Choose a skirt with an off-center slit to make legs look longer.
- Try styles with vertical detailing, such as subtle draping, seams, trims, or piping.
- Consider wearing high heels with your skirt.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your short stature:
- Patch pockets
- Hem details
- Styles that end at the middle of your calf
- Anything that is too girly
Curvy body:
Shapes:
Slightly tapered skirts are flattering.
Try skirts with an a-line shape as a possible option.
For your best look:
- Look for styles with a flat front and a side or back zipper.
- If you are thick in the middle, choose low waist styles or styles without a waistband.
- If you want to show off your waist, choose something with a waistband or belt and tuck in your top.
- Look for flat textured fabrics that stretch a little.
- Choose fabrics that are soft and fluid enough to float over your curves.
- Use an off-center slit to draw attention to the legs.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your curvy figure:
- Stiff fabrics
- Styles with a lot of volume
- Pleats
- Appliquéd pockets
- Horizontal detailing
Tummy
Shapes:
Look for skirts with a flattering, slightly tapered shape and a-line styles.
For your best look:
- Choose styles without a waistband.
- Go for skirts with a flat front and a side or back zipper.
- Choose dark colours and flat fabrics.
- If hips and thighs are slender, consider a lighter-colored skirt and a darker colored long top.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your tummy:
- Bias cuts
- Pleats
- Front darts
- Wrap styles
- Bulky or gathered skirts
- Front pockets
Short waisted / long legs:
Shapes:
Look for a skirt with a straight shape and a low waistline.
For your best look:
- Choose skirts without a waistband.
- Wear tops that fall below the waistline and do not tuck them in.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your short waisted stature and long legs:
- High waisted styles
- Wide waistbands
- Belts of a contrasting color
- Any horizontal detailing near the top of the skirt.
Long waisted / short legs:
Shapes:
Straight styles will seem to elongate your legs.
Look for skirts with a high waistline.
Choose a length between just above the knee to no longer than an inch and a half below the knee.
For your best look:
- Choose a short jacket or top.
- Try a skirt style with an off-center or front slit to make legs appear longer.
- Try vertical detailing, such as subtle draping, seams, trims, or piping, to help with balance.
- Consider single pleats in the front or back, but the fabric must be soft and fluid.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your long waisted stature and short legs:
- Skirts with horizontal patterns
- Any hem details
Pear shaped:
Shapes:
Choose a skirt with a moderate a-line or a softly draped style.
Try tapered, knee length skirts.
For your best look:
- Look for styles without a waistband.
- Choose a skirt with mostly dark and muted colors.
- Look for vertical details, like a center pleat, stitching, or stripes, to elongate your silhouette.
Avoid these mistakes that are not flattering to your pear shaped figure:
- Slanted, flap, or patch pockets
- Pleated skirts
- Bias cuts
- Horizontal details, like seams.
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