Skirt Suit Fitting Advice

Fitting Advice for the Suit Jacket

Collar:

The collar of the jacket should end at the middle of the neck without standing away from it.
See that there is no fabric wrinkling up underneath the collar in the back part.

Lapels:

The lapel should lay flat and roll smooth on the opening line (neckline) above the upper button.
If the lapel gapes open, the jacket is too small in the back part and in the chest.

Shoulders:

The shoulders should sit straight with no pulling and they should not stand off too much.
If there is any pulling or pressure on the shoulder, the jacket is too small.

Body Part:

The jacket of the suit should not fit too slackly.
If the fit of the jacket is too tight, it creates horizontal lines on the back part, it pulls on the hips and opens the back vents.
When you try on the jacket, you should raise and lower your arms in order to see if the jacket moves back to the right fitting place without having to fix the fit position.
Make sure that the armhole is wide enough to move your arms comfortable.
(Please note that jackets with a good fitting shape are always not as comfortable as jackets with a bad fit!)
The curves on the waist of the jacket should fall smooth without making any pleats or crinkles.

Hem:

When you look at the hem from the side, it should be straight all around and fall in a nice round shape.
Make sure that there is no part standing off and that the hem line has a smooth run all around.

Sleeves:

When your hands hang at your side and your arm is slightly bent, the sleeves should just cover your wrist bone.

Buttons:

If the suit jacket is fastened, you should be able to sit down comfortable.
If the jacket is too tight, the fabric will make pleats in the shape of an x pattern going out from the upper button.

Waistband:

A good fit at the waist is very important.
Try the skirt on to see if it feels comfortable when both standing and sitting.
You should be able to put a finger between the waistband and your waist and also consider that there is enough space to wear a shirt or a blouse inside your skirt.

Lining:

The lining should feel comfortable on your skin and not be too tight.
If you sit down and get up again the skirt should slide back smoothly in the right position.
Also see that the lining attachments make no ugly crinkles on the shell fabric.

Side Seams:

Side seams should lay flat and fall straight from the waist to the hem except from special styles with unusual side seams.
Look for a smooth run of the side seam with no crinkles.
The shape of the side seam should fit perfect to the shape of your hips.

Darts:

If the skirt has front or back darts, they should lay flat and make no pleats when you wear the skirt.

Hem:

When you look at the hem from the side, the run of the hemline should be even and smooth all around (except from styles with an asymmetrical hemline).
Especially make sure that the hem doesn`t roll outside on the front or back and on the side seams.