The Tailcoat /
Essential for a White Tie Event!
Index:
1. Details of a tailcoat outfit
2. A perfect tailcoat outfit consists of:
3. Fitting advice for the jacket
4. Fitting advice for the trouser
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The tailcoat is a must for a white tie event.
In this section we will inform you about the most important details and give advice on the perfect fit.
Details of a tailcoat outfit
Tailcoats must always be black.
The cutting shape is very flattering, as it elongates the figure.
Jacket
The jacket is always single-breasted and cannot be closed.
The peak lapel collar is made of silk, as on a tuxedo.
Trouser
The waistband of the trousers sits very high and is covered by the jacket at the sides.
The black trouser has two silk stripes along the side seam of each leg, and never has a turned up hem.
As it isn`t possible to fit a belt under the waistcoat, white suspenders (braces) must be worn.
Waistcoat
The waistcoat is made of white cotton pique, has a lapel collar, and can be single- or double-breasted.
Shirt
The shirt has a stiff front, a collapsible collar and basic cuffs, which allows you to wear elegant cuff links.
Bow tie
You must always wear a white cotton pique bow tie (only waiters wear a black tie with a tailcoat).
Shoes
An absolute must is to wear black patent leather shoes and black knee-high stockings.
Accessories
A white silk scarf can be worn under the coat.
You can finish your classic outfit with a white breast pocket handkerchief and white gloves.
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A perfect tailcoat outfit consists of:
- a black jacket, single-breasted, not closed
- black trousers with two silk stripes along the side seams
- white suspenders (braces)
- a waistcoat made of white cotton pique
- a bow tie made of white cotton pique
- black patent leather shoes
- black knee high stockings
- white silk scarf
- white breast pocket handkerchief
- white evening gloves
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Fitting advice for the tailcoat jacket
Collar
The tailcoat collar should end at the middle of the neck without standing away from it.
See that there is no fabric wrinkling up underneath the collar in the back part.
Peak lapel
The peak lapel should lay flat and roll smooth on the opening line.
The lapel should not be too slender in breadth.
Shoulders
The shoulders should sit straight with no pulling and they should not stand off too much.
If there is any pulling or pressure on the shoulder, the jacket is too small.
The proportions of the shoulder width should always fit to the proportions of the persons head which is wearing the tailcoat jacket.
Body part
The tailcoat has a straight cutting line which should end at the knee in the backpart.
The tailcoat should fit snugly to the chest as if it were buttoned.
The front should finish at the hipbone.
When you try on the jacket, you should raise and lower your arms in order to see if the jacket moves back to the right fitting place without having to fix the fit position.
Make sure that the armhole is wide enough to move your arms comfortable.
Hem
The back part of the hem should fall in a nice round shape and end a little below the bend of the knee.
The front part of the hem should finish about at the hip bone.
Make sure that there is no part standing off and that the hem line has a smooth run all around.
Sleeves
The sleeves of the tailcoat are cutted narrow.
When your hands hang at your side and your arm is slightly bent the sleeves should just cover your wrist bone.
The sleeve should be short enough to allow your shirt cuffs to extend the lenght about ¾ - 1 inch.
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Fitting advice for the tailcoat trouser
Waistband
The waistband should make no gapes on your waistline and you should be able to put a finger between your body and the waistband.
There should be no pulling on the closure hook or button.
As the waistband of a tailcoat trouser sits very high you have to wear suspenders.
Bottom
Your pants should not bag underneath your bottom or be pulled up too tight.
If you must compromise, you should choose the looser fit; the pants will fall more smooth and straight and give you a decent appearance.
Pockets
Most tailcoat trousers have the pockets worked vertical in the sideseam to not disturb the tailcoats line.
They should lie flat and be closed if you are standing.
The lining should be invisible and the shape of the pocket should run in a smooth, straight line.
Side seam
The side seam should run in a straight smooth line from the waistband to the hem.
There should be no puckering or pulling along the side seam.
Inside seam
The inside seam should also run in a straight, smooth line without any puckering or pulling.
The area of the crossing seam between your legs should especially feel comfortable without any pulling or pushing when you stand or sit.
Crotch Seam
If you try on the trouser you should sit, stand, dance and move to see if they feel comfortable and you should pay special attention to the area of the crotch seam.
Creases
The front crease should hang right down the middle of your leg.
If the crease line falls outside of the middle of your leg it looks unfavourable.
Also take care that the intensity of the creases stays consistent all over the length of your trouser.
Otherwise, it will give the trouser a sloppy appearance.
Hem
The correct length of your trouser is also a very determining factor for a good appearance when wearing your trouser.
Make sure that you always wear the shoes you will most often wear with your trouser you try on; the height and the width of the shoe style are especially important.
A trouser which is a little bit too long is better than a too short one.
Walk around and also check the length from the back in a mirror while standing straight.
The hem should touch your instep in front and cover half of your heel on the back.
Never wear trousers with a turned up hem with your tailcoat.
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