Women's Tuxedo /
A Special Look for your Evening Wear!
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Index - Women's Tuxedo: 1. A Perfect Tuxedo Outfit consists of: 2. Fitting Advice for the Tuxedo Jacket 3. Fitting Advice for the Tuxedo Trouser |
Women's fashion is rich in influences from men`s fashion.
In formal outfits you can find a loan of men's classical fashion, the tuxedo.
One of the first famous ladies who chose the tuxedo
Later, in the sixties, famous designer Yves Saint Laurent rediscovered the women's tuxedo with his legendary design.
In the following section, we will give advice about the perfect fit and flattery and make suggestions for which occasions to wear a women's tuxedo.
A Perfect Women's Tuxedo Outfit consists of:
- a single or double-breasted tuxedo jacket in dark blue, black or white
- dark blue or black trousers, to match the colour of your jacket, with one silk stripe down each leg
- a white tuxedo shirt with turned up cuffs, sometimes with the button panel covered
- cuff links
- a black bow tie
- a black cummerbund with pleats facing upwards
- elegant patent leather shoes with black knee-high stockings
- a white breast pocket handkerchief
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Fitting Advice for the Women's Tuxedo Jacket
Collar:
The collar of the jacket should end at the middle of the neck without standing away from it.
See that there is no fabric wrinkling up underneath the collar in the back part.
Lapels:
The lapel should lay flat and roll smooth on the opening line (neckline) above the upper button.
If the lapel gapes open, the jacket is too small in the back part and in the chest.
Shoulders:
The shoulders should sit straight with no pulling and they should not stand off too much.
If there is any pulling or pressure on the shoulder, the jacket is too small.
Body Part:
The jacket of the suit should not fit too slackly.
If the fit of the jacket is too tight, it creates horizontal lines on the back part, it pulls on the hips and opens the back vents.
When you try on the jacket, you should raise and lower your arms in order to see if the jacket moves back to the right fitting place without having to fix the fit position.
Make sure that the armhole is wide enough to move your arms comfortable.
(Please note that jackets with a good fitting shape are always not as comfortable as jackets with a bad fit!)
The curves on the waist of the jacket should fall smooth without making any pleats or crinkles.
Hem:
When you look at the hem from the side, it should be straight all around and fall in a nice round shape.
Make sure that there is no part standing off and that the hem line has a smooth run all around.
Sleeves:
When your hands hang at your side and your arm is slightly bent, the sleeves should just cover your wrist bone.
Buttons:
If the suit jacket is fastened, you should be able to sit down comfortable.
If the jacket is too tight, the fabric will make pleats in the shape of an x pattern going out from the upper button.
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Fitting Advice for the Tuxedo Trouser
Waistband:
There are many different types of waistbands available.
The regular waistband is about 1,2 inch (3 cm) broad.
The waistband should make no gapes on your waistline and you should be able to put a finger between your body and the waistband.
Some waistbands have an elastic part included for a better fit and more comfort.
There should be no pulling on the closure hook or button.
Try also to sit down and see if you feel comfortable.
If you have a waistband style which sits above or below your natural waistline you should take care that your crotch seam ( crossing seam between your legs) feels still comfortable without any pushing or pulling on the part between your legs.
Bottom:
Your pants should not bag underneath your bottom or be pulled up too tight.
If you must compromise, you should choose the looser fit for your evening outfit:
the pants will fall more smooth and straight and give you a decent appearance.
Very tight trouser lines should be choosen only if you feel very comfortable with your figure and if the event is not too formal.
Pockets:
Most of the different pocket styles should lie flat and be closed if you are standing.
The lining should be invisible and the shape of the pocket should run in a smooth, straight line.
If the pocket opening gapes (especially on diagonal styles) it makes the hips look bigger.
To avoid this, you can shut the pocket and fix it by an invisible seam to stay closed.
(Most pockets are previously closed by a seam, if you buy them just leave them closed! )
Side Seam:
The side seam is very important on a trousers look.
The side seam should run in a straight smooth line from the waistband to the hem.
There should be no puckering or pulling along the side seam.
The side seam should fit as good as possible to your body shape, especially in the area from your waist to your hips.
Inside Seam:
The inside seam should also run in a straight, smooth line without any puckering or pulling.
The area of the crossing seam between your legs should especially feel comfortable without any pulling or pushing when you stand or sit.
Crotch Seam:
The best tip for the fit of the crotch seam is like we said above, just make sure it feels comfortable when sitting and standing.
If the crotch seam hangs too low, it will shorten the length of your legs and look unfavourable.
If it sits too high, it can be very uncomfortable and look even coarse.
If you try on the pants you should sit, stand, dance and move to see if they feel comfortable and you should pay special attention to the area of the crotch seam.
Legs:
The style is most dependant upon the shape of the legs of your trouser.
The most important for the shape is the knee width and the hem width.
Straight shapes or shapes with a slight flare from the knee to the hem fit very good for your evening wear.
If you wear tapered leg cuts, it can emphasize your hips.
Creases:
If you are wearing pants with a front crease, the crease should hang right down the middle of your leg.
If the crease line falls outside of the middle of your leg it looks unfavourable.
Also take care that the intensity of the creases stays consistent all over the length of your trouser.
Otherwise, it will give the trouser a sloppy appearance.
Hem:
The width of the hem is very important for the style of the pants.
For your evening wear, we suggest choosing a women's suit with a hem width which is close to the knee width.
These styles are the most elegant styles that flatter the widest range of figures.
The correct length of your pant is also a very determining factor for a good appearance when wearing your trouser.
Make sure that you always wear the shoes you will most often wear with your trouser you try on; the height and the width of the shoe style are especially important.
A trouser which is a little bit too long is better than a too short one.
Walk around and also check the length from the back in a mirror while standing straight.
The hem should touch your instep in front and cover half of your heel on the back.
If you wear trousers with a turned up hem you should consider that your legs appear shorter than without a turned up hem.
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